{"id":2366,"date":"2013-01-16T09:47:36","date_gmt":"2013-01-16T09:47:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/15.188.81.248\/2013\/01\/16\/sant-pere-de-rodes-imprescindible\/"},"modified":"2024-12-23T19:40:39","modified_gmt":"2024-12-23T17:40:39","slug":"sant-pere-de-rodes-imprescindible","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/sant-pere-de-rodes-imprescindible\/","title":{"rendered":"Sant Pere de Rodes, imprescindible"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/portada-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/portada-1-1024x681-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"De camino a Sant Pere de Rodes\" class=\"wp-image-33836\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">De camino a Sant Pere de Rodes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Guardaba en la cripta la cabeza y el brazo derecho de San Pedro y por eso llegaron gentes de toda la <strong>Europa medieval<\/strong> en formaci\u00f3n. Sobre la leyenda se construy\u00f3 a lo largo de 9 siglos uno de los centros de poder m\u00e1s importantes de Catalu\u00f1a: el Monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes, el imprescindible de la <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/casas-rurales-costa-brava\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"rank-math-link\">Costa Brava<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En <strong>Sant Pere de Rodes<\/strong> me convert\u00ed en peregrino imaginario para admirar la segunda iglesia rom\u00e1nica m\u00e1s alta de la cristiandad. Pase\u00e9 por la historia y la singularidades del monumento: el \u00fanico monasterio con dos claustros, una torre de defensa convertida en <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/casas-rurales\/cataluna&amp;f=46\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"rank-math-link\">apartamentos con vistas al mar<\/a>, la inmersi\u00f3n en el <em>ora et labora<\/em> benedictino reconvertido en el mundo moderno en el mira y admira.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/claustro-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/claustro-1-1024x681-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"Claustro de Sant Pere de Rodes\" class=\"wp-image-33835\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Claustro de Sant Pere de Rodes.\n\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">La organizaci\u00f3n medieval de un vistazo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><a label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ILwG4w7Rk0M\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"rank-math-link\">Yo iba de peregrino<\/a> durante el Camino de Santiago y virtualmente lo volv\u00ed a sentir entrando en Sant Pere de Rodes. La propuesta del simp\u00e1tico gu\u00eda era de la imaginarnos aquella vida medieval, la que correspond\u00eda al esplendor del monasterio, y a fe que lo conseguimos saliendo adem\u00e1s bien instruidos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pero lo cierto es que salv\u00e9 en conche los 8 km de subida que separan el monasterio del Port de la Selva, el pueblo a orillas del mar en el que no me acab\u00e9 los mejillones (as\u00ed quedar\u00e1 en mi memoria), que poco tienen que ver con el peregrinaje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/elmar-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/elmar-1-1024x681-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"Vistas desde el Monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes\" class=\"wp-image-33834\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Vistas desde el Monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Porque la imponencia del monasterio parece m\u00e1s grande que la monta\u00f1a en la que se asienta, y porque no conocimos su historia y los detalles del lugar hasta que penetramos en \u00e9l, no ca\u00ed en la presencia de un peque\u00f1o asentamiento a su izquierda y otro m\u00e1s a su derecha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En el centro el monasterio, pero <strong>\u00bfqu\u00e9 eran aquellas otras dos construcciones?<\/strong> El bulto de la izquierda es el antiguo castillo de Sant Salvador, la fortaleza de protecci\u00f3n de los caballeros de los condes de Empuries. El de la derecha, aquella cruz visible, era la antiqu\u00edsima ermita de Santa Elena, un pueblo medieval que en el s. X alberg\u00f3 a m\u00e1s de 300 personas. La cifra por aquel entonces constitu\u00eda un hito.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Es decir que de espaldas al mar ten\u00eda enfrente una muestra exacta y en miniatura de los estamentos medievales, el funcionamiento social, pol\u00edtico y econ\u00f3mico que defend\u00eda la \u00e9poca:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Los <strong>nobles<\/strong>: caballeros que defend\u00edan sus intereses y proteg\u00edan al clero desde el Castillo de Sant Salvador.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>El <strong>clero<\/strong>: monjes benedictinos dedicados al trabajo y la oraci\u00f3n que medraban con el diezmo de los humildes.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Los <strong>humildes<\/strong>: las gentes llanas del pueblo de la Santa Cruz, analfabetas, que trabajaban la tierra y albergaban a cientos de peregrinos<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/totres-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/totres-1-1024x681-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"Vista del monasterio, desde dentro\" class=\"wp-image-33833\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Vista del monasterio, desde dentro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">De celda mon\u00e1stica a centro de poder abandonado<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Una construcci\u00f3n como el monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes no se construye en un a\u00f1o. Ni en dos. <strong>Tardaban siglos<\/strong>. Si a ello le sumas los cambios pol\u00edticos y econ\u00f3micos inherentes a cada centuria compruebas c\u00f3mo los templos no eran proyectos definidos en su origen, sino cambiantes y flexibles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Las 22 dependencias de Sant Pere de Rodes pertenecen a diferentes \u00e9pocas, de tal manera que un recorrido por ellas es un itinerario por la historia. Uno puede poner un pie en el siglo XII, el otro en el XV y tocar alargando el brazo el XVII.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/torre-reflejo-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/torre-reflejo-1-1024x681-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"La creatividad del momento\" class=\"wp-image-33832\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">La creatividad del momento.\n\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ser\u00eda aburrido trazar toda la historia del lugar desde aqu\u00ed adem\u00e1s de absurdo intentar emular al gu\u00eda (3\u20ac por persona) que tantas veces nos hizo re\u00edr mientras nos la relataba, pero merece la pena dar algunos apuntes por si decid\u00eds vistarlo:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Un peque\u00f1o habit\u00e1culo sagrado, anterior a la llegada de los sarracenos, pudo ser el original del monasterio.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>El mecenazgo del s. X, constituido por un noble de Emp\u00faries, estimul\u00f3 la construcci\u00f3n de la iglesia y las dependencias. El principio de su esplendor.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>La decadencia de los ss. XIII y XIV: los condes de Emp\u00faries son absorbidos por el Condado de Barcelona, se abandona el castillo, se construyen las murallas y la peste negra se lleva a la mitad de la comunidad.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Monjes y pueblo llano subsisten hasta el s. XVII, fecha de un breve y renovado esplendor gracias a la producci\u00f3n del vino. Todo lo que ahora es monte pelado fue selva de encinas, robles y pinos, roturada para el cultivo de la vi\u00f1a. De ah\u00ed el nombre del pueblo: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/casas-rurales\/cataluna&amp;q=Port%20de%20la%20Selva\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"rank-math-link\">Port de la Selva<\/a>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Abandono definitivo del monasterio en el 1798 y los \u00faltimos 5 monjes se van a Figueres.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>La desamortizaci\u00f3n de Mendiz\u00e1bal le otorga un nuevo uso, totalmente alejado de la vida mon\u00e1stica.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Se declara Monumento Nacional y comienzan los trabajos de recuperaci\u00f3n en el s. XX.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">El apunte: <em>opus espicatum<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Una anotaci\u00f3n m\u00e1s: durante la visita apreciari\u00e9is en media altura de las paredes un tipo de construcci\u00f3n muy especial: el <em>Opus Espicatum<\/em> o \u00abespina de pez\u00bb. Piedras dispuestas de manera oblicua que recuerda las espigas del trigo o la columna de un pescado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hay varias teor\u00edas respecto a su presencia: una forma de reconocerse entre cristianos (simb\u00f3licamente se identificaban entre ellos con la espina de un pez) o un m\u00e9todo que dar\u00eda flexibilidad a los cimientos de la construcci\u00f3n que suavizar\u00eda en parte los movimientos s\u00edsmicos de la zona. Interesante, \u00bfverdad?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/port-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/port-1-1024x681-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"El Port de la Selva desde Sant Pere de Rodes\" class=\"wp-image-33831\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">El Port de la Selva desde Sant Pere de Rodes.\n\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Aconsejo contratar la visita guiada, que por 3\u20ac absorbes en 1 h la informaci\u00f3n contenida en 3 obras como <em>Los pilares de la Tierra<\/em>. Ten\u00e9is a vuestros pies despu\u00e9s de la visita el Parque Natural de Cap de Creus y las calas de la <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/casas-rurales-costa-brava\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"rank-math-link\">Costa Brava<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Y t\u00fa, \u00bfhas estado en el Monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/casas-rurales-en-sant-pere-de-rodes-1-3-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/casas-rurales-en-sant-pere-de-rodes-1-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"Casas rurales cerca del monasterio y del Parque Natural Cap de Creus\" class=\"wp-image-33830\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Casas rurales cerca del monasterio y del Parque Natural Cap de Creus.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>El Monasterio de Sant Pere de Rodes, en pleno Parque Natural Cap de Creus, el imprescindible de la Costa Brava&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":136,"featured_media":33836,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[231],"tags":[929,404,295,870,967],"class_list":["post-2366","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arte-y-cultura","tag-blogtrip","tag-que-ver-en-girona","tag-monasterio","tag-monumentos","tag-parque-natural-cap-de-creus"],"acf":[],"featured_image_src":"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/portada-1.jpg","author_info":{"display_name":"Escapada Rural","author_link":"https:\/\/www.escapadarural.com\/blog\/autor\/user\/"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized 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